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Monday, March 21, 2011

Jaipur - The Pink City - Passage to India Part 3

I think that my first true impression of India took shape in Jaipur.  After coming from Goa, coming to a place like Jaipur was an eye opener...for sure.  Not only a tremendous culture shock, but a unique impression of life... in all its glory, its misery, its scents, colors, ... a tapestry of people, and religions, mixing like ants... together with THE COWS!... YES, MORE COWS!, and CAMELS !... and even ELEPHANTS !!!




and... lots of monkeys :



That is Jaipur, noisy, colorful, mysterious, enchanting, and a place to see.


Let me go back one step.  My good friends, Trygve, and Tom had just come back from India when I left New York. They had made a point to reserve a chauffeur for me, since they traveled with him a good portion on their trip.  I was thankful.  To travel in India, at least the way I do it, - with an insatiable curiosity - , you need a chauffeur, and you need a good one.  Someone who knows where everything is, who will introduce you to special places, known to him and his family, and take you through paths less traveled, and make your experience richer, fuller, and interesting... No tourist bus, no group thing, it's just you and your chauffeur, and you need to rely on him for very important things during your travel... like : what if you get sick, where do you go?... what if you need a pharmacy that is open at night?  what if you want to go visit places that tourists do not see?   and other things, i.e. the best street foods, the best bargains...but beware.  Chauffeurs get paid commissions by the store where they bring you to.


 I checked at my hotel in Jaipur:

And asked Raju to pick me up in the morning, so that we could organize my trip.


The following day, Raju came with his friend Raj.  Raj and Raju have both the same name, and here is my first meeting with them waiting patiently while I am snapping the two Rajs for all posterity:


The one I called Raju is on the right.  The one on the left Raj ended up being my chauffeur for one month.  We had a great time!








That morning was very important, as all of a sudden I had not one but two chauffeurs... both wanted to be my chauffeur.  At first, since I was alone for a few days, I did not mind having two chauffeurs in the car with me, but then started thinking that perhaps I will have to pay for two chauffeurs... that did not sit right with me. This the time to discuss prices for driving, and other expenses. Make sure to have it all very clearly expressed. I have heard horror stories about drivers.  It's important to pick someone that you feel you can get along with, of course.


Among other things, I visited artisanal factories, where they make all kinds of things: blankets, scarves, pillow covers, you name it.  I could probably buy a few things there to bring back.  The owner invited me to lunch... so when in Rome:
Lunch time ! So, here I am with Raju on the left, and the owner of the factory next to me. It was an all vegetarian lunch, and it was a lot of fun to sit like this in the middle of the floor, eating with my fingers, and getting curry all over my face!

I decided to look at some bed covers, and the owner insisted on a tour of the factory.  Everything there was handmade, hand dyed, from the first stitch to the last.


Here where they hang the material to dry after it is dyed... It is very archaic, but it works:

And this is how they dye the material

They also make beautiful woodblock printing... all by hand:
 Here are some of the finished products: http://www.gopooja.com/index.php?cPath=128_129

Jaipur, the Rajasthan capital, is one of India's top cities and has both attributes of pre-and post-modern Indian. Jaipur is known for its fairs and festivals, great shopping, magnificent temples, beautiful monuments and lush gardens. Many Jaipur hotels are strategically placed near the top sites, including Central and North Jaipur. 

For a panorama of Jaipur and to see why it's called 'The Pink City', visitors should head to 18th century Nalagarh Fort. I would definitely recommend visiting the Fort. It is well worth it.  I took a guide who spoke English for the tour, and that was quite helpful.




Jaipur offers some of the best intercontinental cuisine and because it was once considered the royal city, it's home to many of India's most noteworthy restaurants. Traditional fare is highly recommended; both Dall Batti and Churma are famous in Jaipur.

Another place not to miss... The Monkey Temple, or more correctly : The Hanuman Temple. This temple is dedicated to Hanuman, the Monkey God of families.  There families come and bathe together, and offer "pujas" (offerings) to Hanuman.  The temple itself is just beautiful, more or less well maintained, and I found it to be quite romantic, and absolutely incredible.  Built entirely in the mountain, here monkeys roam freely.  I do not advise to try to be friends with those cunning creatures, as they will jump in your hair, and in your pocketbook to reach for food.  I saw monkeys dragging saris that were left to dry on a wall, toss it around and throw them in the wind, or jump on people and snatch whatever they could find... aaargh...

Hanuman Temple - Jaipur
Hanuman Temple
I'm not sure if he was priest or not, but he took me through meandering passages within the temple, and I was quite concerned, as it was dark, and I was alone.  I would have never found my way back out.  We finally stopped in a little alcove where another man was praying.  You can sit across from him and for 200 rupees (Approx. US $4.50) he'll give you a blessing, a little bracelet, and a bindi in the middle of your forehead!  ;o)  In every Indian there is a little business man, I always say.

 Here are some other pictures I took while visiting Jaipur :
no elephant jokes please ! ;o)



all photos ©copyright by mynou de mey - new york 2008,2009, 2011
Next stop : Jodhpur - The Blue City